Canning Thoughts from a Self Congratulatory Hipster
March 11th, 2010Aliza Ess from Baltimore DIY linked me to the current Slate article about canning. The contents of which basically say that the current canning trend is full of self-congratulatory bohos who volunteer to weed at organic farms and tell themselves that canning their own food or curing their own bacon is cheaper than storebought and better for the environment, neither of which is actually true. The author also points out that canning is work, drudge work and that our forebearers didn’t like to do it. She wants us to see it for what it is, a nice hobby that makes pretty things to put on your windowsill and enjoy in the winter to remind you of summer.
Sigh.
As I remarked to Aliza on twitter, this feels very reminiscent of the ‘look at those cute young hipsters knitting!’ articles that made the rounds when knitting had its renaissance in 2003-2004. Those were also dismissive of the hobby, also proclaimed it cute and also proclaimed it basically pointless in the long run. People writing these articles often missed the point. They talked about nesting after 9/11, about young people trying to make things for cheap, about entrepeneurs, about fun fur scarves. The point was to spend time making something exactly the way you want it for someone you care about (yourself, loved ones or charity). What greater act of self-love is there than to spend 40+ hours knitting yourself a cashmere sweater, designed to fit you exactly, in a color and pattern you love? And there are similar reasons to spend your time canning food.
So, let’s go through this article, point by point.
Point 1: Canning is trendy. True. Yay! As I often say, people with hobbies want to recruit. Why? The more people involved in the hobby, the more demand there is for supplies, the more mainstream it gets. Being able to find canning lids in December from someplace that’s not Amazon would be awesome.
Pont 2: This used to be common practice, was replaced by mechanization and modernization and is now having a trendy renaissance. This sure sounds like knitting when it first got popular! You’d see a lot of ‘why would you spend $20 on sock yarn and spend 20 hours knitting a pair of socks when you could buy a pair for $2 at the Walmart?’ So, why would I spend money and hours making pots of strawberry jam? The answer’s the same for both questions: because I want to, because I can and because I can customize it. I personally don’t like handknit socks (too heavy), but my dad does. It’s been his Christmas present 2 years running. I knit the socks specifically to his foot size so there’s no leftover room. Why would I make strawberry jam? I know exactly what’ll be in it (I’ll get to that later), I enjoy doing it and I can make the jam fun and different. Strawberry ginger jam? Strawberry balsamic jam? How about a sugar free jam? Or with just the amount of sugar I like? I can control this to get exactly the jam I want because… get this… I MADE IT. Booyah. Done. Awesome.
Point 3: Pickling, canning and curing is part of the local food movement and usually practiced by urban food junkies who can for weekend projects. Well, I can’t really fault her there. I try to be a part of the local food community when my finances allow. And I can be a bit of a food junkie that way. I really enjoy taking Sunday afternoon to bake bread and make cheese and then have both for dinner.
Point 4: These foodie hipsters would rather blog about what they’ve canned instead of make healthy lunches for the week. Um… who says I can’t do both? I own a crockpot. It’s easy enough for me to make locally sourced bison chili using home canned tomatoes in the crockpot while I can some marmalade for the can jam. (That’s actually not true. I’m out of bison until the farmer’s market reopens next month and I finished off my canned tomatoes in December.) Or heck, I could make a ploughman’s lunch and enjoy the fruits of my labor that way (minus the stout, of course).
Point 5: Canning isn’t frugal unless you grow your own food. Well, if you’re buying $5 a pound heirloom tomatoes, no, it’s not. If you’re using $1 a pound tomatoes from the local pick your own, it is. And even if you don’t have the ways or means to make the trek out there, there are ways around the issue. Make friends with the vendors at your local farmers market and see if they’ll be willing to sell you a bushel of bruised apples or peaches on the cheap. When I bought 3 pounds of peppers to roast & can, the vendor offered to sell me bruised ones at a discount if I was going to pickle them in strips (I wasn’t, so I didn’t take him up on it, which I am kicking myself about now). Make friends with neighbors with fruit trees. If you get a CSA, ask your farmer if s/he’s got a glut of anything you can get to preserve. And yes, the initial investment in jars can be expensive, but replacement lids are plentiful. If it’s your first go round canning tomatoes, you’ll probably spend about the same or a little more than buying a can, but that’s not the point. And I think the biggest investment of canning is time. It’s not a quick ordeal. Tomatoes take 40 minutes to process, and that’s after you peel and deseed the tomatoes and get the water to boil. Is the result ultimately worth it? I think it is.
Point 6: Canning is drudgery and work. And some of us enjoy it. Sorry you don’t. And no, we don’t have to do it to eat in the winter the was Ms. Dickerman’s mom did. But her mom also admitted that it tasted good. Probably better than the asparagus you get in the grocery store in September.
Point 7: This trend isn’t about preserving serious food for the future, it’s for making condiments that are pretty. I… I’m sorry, what? What? I think this partly comes from the idea that to can most vegetables, you need a pressure canner, which is expensive and too much work. Now, since I don’t own a pressure canner (but my birthday’s coming up… just saying), I can’t comment on how much harder it is to preserve using one, but I don’t believe it’s difficult. Ms. Dickerman referenced the sublime Well-Preserved by Eugenia Bone, but did she actually look at the recipes? Included are diced tomatoes, preserved bell peppers, asparagus, cauliflower and so on. All with water bath canning. Tomatoes are easily preserved in a water bath. When I put things up this summer, I did batches of diced tomatoes and tomato sauce and with both, the only special ingredient was citric acid, which you can find at most grocery stores in August as Fruit Fresh
. Or make bruschetta in a jar like everyone else this summer involved in the canvolution (and you should. It’s delicious). Apple sauce is simple to make and can, and easy to use for baking or just as a snack. I pickled peaches and made jam this summer and have been adding both of them to yogurt all winter. My pickled beets are divine (if I do say so myself) and are an excellent component in salads or appetizers. In the summer, I eat them straight from the jar. Pickled carrots are one of my favorite snacks. Yes, to can just straight carrots or beets or beans or chicken stock or whatever would require a pressure canner and proper consultation with the canning bible
, but it’s doable and it’s easy.
What frustrates me the most here is that Ms. Dickerman is missing the point. Yes, canning and preserving is trendy right now. Yes, it’s done by local foodies as a hobby weekend product. Yes, there’s a self-congratulatory element to it. I mean, I think there’s a self-congratulatory aspect to the entire food movement. Have you ever tried to eat just local food? It’s HARD. I’d be self-congratulatory too! But none of this is the point. The point is that we can so that it’s ours. I spent my weekends in August putting up diced tomatoes, tomato sauce, peppers, jam, apple sauce, apple butter, etc… so that this winter, I can pull out a jar of sauce to dump over pasta without worrying about high fructose corn syrup or other preservatives. With all of the information coming out about BPA in canned goods, I feel safer taking the time to can my own tomato sauce than to buy a can of tomatoes from the store. Plus, canned tomatoes taste like metal.
In the comments, Ms. Dickerman apologizes for forgetting about the aspect of canning for others. Much like knitting, canning is something that is enjoyable to do for yourself and others (though in canning, it’s easy to do something for yourself that benefis others as well). I gave my staff and friends pots of blackberry jam for the winter holidays (bruschetta in a jar for those I knew were on a diet/sugar restrictions). I’m donating a basket of canned goods to a silent auction for my favorite pagan charity.
And why is it that these articles are always about “women’s trends?” If this was an article written about manly men buying too many power tools and making their own shelves, would you call it cute? Do articles about urban farming, chicken cooping or backyard beekeeping get the same treatment? (I guess chickens do)
It’s inevitable that when something becomes popular, articles are written by someone to explain the trend to others and it inevitably minimizes the movement and is unintentionally insulting. It happens. I’ve been guilty of it too (sorry Harry Potter fanfic). So, congratulations are in order there for Ms. Dickerman. You get to be the first of what I’m sure will be many head-deskers. But you don’t get any of my peach ginger jam OR my pickled carrots.






